|
|
|
SITKA, ALASKA TERRITORY, Saturday, December 8, 1888
The Alaska of Europe
The Land of the Midnight Sun in the Eastern Hemisphere -
Its Natural Features, Entrancing Scenery and Quaint People
The following is a translation of a letter recently received by a gentleman in
this city, giving a description of a trip along the Northwest Coast of Norway to the North Cape,
which will doubtless be of interest to our readers :
AMSTERDAM, HOLLAND
September 22nd, 1888
I have read with great interest the descriptions of Alaska and its inhabitants,
which you sent to L_____ from time to time, and having made an extended tour in Norway as far as
the North Cape I will give you a sketch of its Western Coast between Trondheim and that Cape, as
it seems to me that it has much similarity with your region.
Credit is due to the English tourists for the "discovery" of Norway, and the
explanation of this is easy considering the relative situation of Great Britain and the first
named country. From Hull, Edinburgh and Newcastle there are many opportunities for the sons and
daughters of Albion to cross the ocean to the Fiord coast, and there they find themselves in a
happy hunting ground - a fishing rod, and clothing fit for a damp climate is all that is required,
and many an Englishmen is rendered more than happy if he can during his few holidays capture be
it only a few salmon and trout. Thus it was that the piscatorial Britishers paved the way for the
host of travellers who every year in great number visit the North of Europe to spend their
leisure time in the admiration of sublime Nature.
Taking it for granted that you are familiar with the conditions of Southern and
Middle Norway, I commence with my embarking on board the Bergen Nordenfeld S. S. Co.'s steamer
Sirius, Capt. Juell, at Trondheim (Trondhjem). She is one of four steamers, each of which makes
three trips during June and July between Bergen and the North Cape. In winter, that is to say
from August until the middle of June, they run as mail steamers between Vadso and Hamburg, for
which service the company receives the considerable subsidy of 1,500,000 crowns ($390,000). Of
the departure of a North Cape boat the Trondheim people make a holiday; the majority of the
population crowd around the wharves, may be from curiosity, to stare at the foreign tourists who
are so materially differ in dress from themselves, and no doubt that variegated throng is worth
seeing. I observed American ladies with gray gentlemen's hats, draped with blue gauze, ladies
with jockey capes, old gentlemen in knickerbockers and with white dust veils as if they had but
yesterday left the deserts in Egypt or Algeria, and finally ladies who had cast off the "womanly"
and resembled everything but woman.
At last the signal for departure was given and with the usual "ahead" and
"back" movements of a steamer leaving port, the "Sirius" soon glided over the dark waters of the
Fiord and made the city wrapped in a violet colored mist disappear from our sight as in a dissolving
view. We were now prisoners confined in our movements for eight days, but there was one consolation:
We were one hundred strong and we all had voluntarily surrendered ourselves for one object - to
revel in the beauties of Norway's west coast! Our ship yet carried the greatest number of
passengers during the season and the saloon could not accommodate all passengers for taking their
meals simultaneously, in consequence of which we read upon the black-board, designated for general
communications for the passengers, the notice in English as well as in German, that the tables
would be set twice for each meal and that every passenger was requested to register his name and
decide whether he wished to belong to the first or second table. Through this arrangement the
company became divided into two main groups, the English speaking portion selecting the first
table, the Germans the second, whilst the other nationalities were about evenly divided.
As an impartial looker-on I already from the beginning of the trip observed the
existence of a jealousy between the two strongly represented nations, which was not always
restrained by courtesy and of which the Germans doubtless were the cause. As soon as the morning
of the first day out, a committee of the Germans waited upon the Captain and informed him of
their desire "that their rights should be equally respected with those of the English, now that
they were on board in even numbers." The latter circumstance had never happened before, and it
is incontestable that the mode of life on board these steamers is entirely English, due it is
said to a fear of competition. And no wonder as it is calculated that with an average
transportation of 80 passengers, each voyage nets the Company 22,000 crowns, resulting in 66,000
crowns for three trips of each steamer or for four an aggregate of 264,000 crowns ($68,640). It
behooves the commanders of those steamers therefor to exercise a good deal of tact in the relations
with their passengers, but Captain Juell is an expert in the art of beating up against an adversary
wind and respected by the majority for his impartiality and kindness. To illustrate this I will
only mention one instance. It is the custom when sufficient "northing" has been made to see the
midnight sun for the first time that the flags of all nations of which representatives are on
board are hoisted towards 12 p. m. Thus the Sirius hoisted on July 20th, at midnight, ten different
national ensigns but the Dutch tricolor was only represented by its red, white and blue being flung
to the breeze in vertical stripes (the French flag) but the horizontal ones were wanting. My
patriotism rebelled against this. Upon my questioning the Captain how it was that my national
emblem was missing, he looked much surprised and said that he had taken me for a German, on
account of my speaking either German or Norwegian to him and his officers, and that he had also
heard me speak English and never had realized to what nationality I did belong. The ensuing noon
the steward brought me a bouquet accompanied by the Captain's card inscribed with the words,
"Please pardon me." The flowers, these the product of such a northerly region and so pretty
besides, were highly appreciated by me; they had been ordered at Tromso, where we had arrived
early in the morning, and moreover the Captain had immediately directed that a Dutch flag be made,
which heralded at midnight of July 21st to the Lofoden group of islands that among the strangers
on board were also natives of the Netherlands.
The weather was overcast and raining the first two days out, and the black-board
announced on the second morning that the weather prevented the ascent of Torghatten Rock and a
visit to the Svartisen (Black Ice) Glacier. Svartisen is the largest terrestrial ice formation
in Europe, which spreads itself over a distance of 70 kilometers (42 English miles). The sun pierced
through the clouds just as we came in sight of the Lofoden group. Nothing more beautiful could
man behold - that picturesque mass of islands, those towering, bare rocks, yet for the greater part
covered with snow, in whose crags from time to time a lonely fisherman's cabin or a train-oil
storehouse vainly endeavored to conceal itself; to see all this under a glistening sunlight, we
had hoped but not expected to contemplate. At Harstadhaven on one of the Lofoden Islands (Hindo)
we stopped for four hours. The object was a visit to the Church of Trondenhaas, one of the few
early Christian monuments in North Norway. It dates from the Eighth Century, and is entirely built
of stone. It cannot boast of architectural beauty, but its organ surpassed our expectations.
That night we saw the midnight sun in all its splendor. To view the sun at
midnight a distance above the horizon is a conceit that must be enjoyed with a timepiece in hand.
But it is no conceit to see how the sun embellished the clouds with all the colors which the
spectrum places at its disposal, and the usual illuminations caused by the capricious forms of
the clouds; to admire the ocean which glitters like a mass of molten gold, softly heaving under
the night wind's breath, whilst astern the vast expanse is bounded by the violet and crimson-tinted
pinnacles of a rocky coast. Though there was no darkness to announce to us that resting time was
approaching, most of the passengers retired to their staterooms, so induced by the Captain who
advised a good night's rest in order to prepare for the fatigues of the two following days and nights.
We were then heading for Tromso, where we arrived at 6 a. m., and from which place a couple of
excursion trips had been arranged. After a hurried breakfast we took to the boats and were rowed
ashore, not to the town, but to the opposite side, where we were to visit a Lapp village. The
walk thither was to me a welcome change and more so because it was on a day which lavished upon
us a beautiful spring-time. Only recently the snow had melted in the valley; its downy sheet yet
covered the mountain slopes, brilliant in the sun's splendor and contrasted by the young verdure
on the bottom lands. The tender ferns and moss plants were still resplendent in their light green
hues, delicate tints in the full freshness of their short existence. It presented the rapture of
a refreshing spring day as one can only find in a wooded country. The object of our walk, which
came to view after crossing a birch patch (Tromso's pride), was less fresh and clean, but so much
more interesting as it offered us something new and odd. Within a fenced-in corral were gathered
some two hundred reindeer, accompanied by a score of Lapps. Their semi-spherical huts, covered with
grass sod were near by, from which emerged continually more occupants; it was astonishing to see
how many Lapps can accommodate themselves in a single hut, but their appearance, without exception,
attested to their contempt for cleanliness. How uncivilized, filthy and abhorrent of water this
people may be they have nevertheless learned one lesson from civilization. They know how to turn
their oddity into account. Small spoons of reindeer horn, knives with scabbards of the same
material, skins, tobacco pouches and sundry other curios found a ready sale. Blessed he who knows
to curb his greed for their wares until the visitors are about to leave the camp; for half the
originally demanded prices one can secure the coveted articles. Moreover, the Lapp understands how
to turn his personality into money; in a less discreditable appliance of the words than was the
case with the old Romans it may be said of them: "Quaestum corpore faciunt." For lending a
spicyness to a group of tourists the photographers of Tromso pay a male of the genus Lapp, three
crowns, a female two, and a child one crown (26 cents), whilst also for the appearance of a reindeer
an extra charge is exacted. An undeviating rule for all this is "pay in advance;" every host gauges
his guest by himself! The unruliness of the animals is great, and that they have no fondness for
their exhibition is apparent (at least on our group) from the fact that they only appear as
materialized spirits. The Lapps themselves, however, are represented in their entirety, but the
lady who took a Lapp baby in her lap was envied by nobody. Of the reindeer milk, which was milked
in our presence by one of the savage women, nobody dared to take a taste, less from repugnance
against the unknown and therefore unliked beverage, as because we had witnessed the deed performed
by the utterly unclean hands of the milkster. Considering that these representatives of the Lappish
race have had frequently an opportunity to come in contact with European civilization and have
benefitted by it so little, one shudders at the thought in what condition the remainder of that
people must live, of which these are said to be the envoys and the most civilized specimens.
After this visit the town, situated upon an island at the opposite side of the
channel, was given attention. One's expectations will not be strung too high of a town of 2,000
or 3,000 inhabitants beyond the Arctic Circle. At that one reasonably will expect is fish and
train-oil, but how agreeable surprising is it to find more favorable conditions, even a store with
plate glass windows and last but not least a museum; and let it be said here one of which the
internal arrangement excels many of its larger and better known sisters. In the bird section for
instance the exhibit is so arranged that with one glance the whole of a special variety can be
seen; the male and female are accompanied by their young ones, whilst the therewith deposited eggs
show the concealment from which the latter have emerged. Truly an arrangement which deserves
emulation.
At half-past seven in the evening the signal gun was fired giving warning that
the steamer would weigh anchor within half an hour. This it was proved, was not an unnecessary
announcement, for two gentlemen, passionate sportsmen, had barely time to board her before she
commenced gaining headway. However as a comfort for the anxiety experienced by them they brought
as a result of their day's hunt many ptarmigan, gulls, and several other kinds of aquatic birds,
besides having left to the care of the conservator of the Tromso Museum some of the handsomest
specimens to be properly stuffed, to take home with them to Germany to serve as trophies of their
hyperborean sport.
Our course was now set for Hammerfest, which we remembered from our school
years was the most northerly city of Europe. After a night's passage of twelve hours this desolate
place was reached. Desolate, no doubt it is; not a blade of grass is anywhere discernable;
everything is greasy and has been contaminated with train-oil, and the air is impregnated with
its repulsive smell, of which only a fresh sea breeze gives relief. I had pledged myself to visit
one of the oil works, yes, even if I could not be tempted to accept the drink of honor - a glass
of cod-liver oil - but how willing the spirit may be, the flesh is weak, and before I had crossed
its threshold my courage failed and I vouchsafed myself absolution for the breaking of my solemn
pledge; the smell was too powerful. Not withstanding its lubricative and odorous characteristics
the place is picturesque, and many sights one observes when strolling along the wharves, when a
variety of oddly shaped sailing craft lie waiting a cargo, with their crews of Finns, Lapps and
Norwegians in their respective picturesque, though not extremely tidy national dress enlivening
the scene. People who not only come - to use an Ovidian phrase - to see for themselves but also
to be seen by others. This is Hammerfest's only redeeming point and I have observed there scenes
which would have gladdened an artist's heart and made him seize his sketch book at once. For the
first, or at most the second time during my sojourn in Norway I saw a man in his cups - and he
was a Lapp. Sheds full of oil-barrels, and fish curing houses are everywhere to be noticed
whilst the place boasts of only a single store, which is, of course, an emporium in itself. I
must confess that all were glad to leave that town and more so because our next stopping place
was to be the chief object of our travels - the North Cape. The Captain said there were signs of
prolonged good weather, on account of a light snow which had fallen in the early morning and which
was easily to be distinguished from the older layers by its downy radiance.
But before reaching the North Cape another spectacle awaited our eyes. The
excursion steamers take their course to the southward of Magero (of which the Cape is the northern
extremity) to pass the Svaerholt klub, a perpendicular wall of rock projecting into the sea and
inhabited by millions and millions of birds. Its proportions are so immense that to behold it
causes a sort of disappointment. What is more natural than to figure for one's self a rock
covered with a living white sheet, as it were? But the reality is far from such a conception; in
the distance one sees nothing but a rock flecked with gray patches here and there, and it requires
the booming of cannon to make matters interesting. Frightened by the reports of the guns,
re-echoed from several places, every gray spot produces thousands of birds, who with deafening
screams take wing and even darken the sky overhead. The commotion is only of short duration,
however, and to repeat the scene a second cannonade is soon necessary. The birds, doubtless, have
already become accustomed to the alarm through the frequent visits of the steamers at this
season, and to create a greater effect, rockets pointed at the different patches, are resorted to
as a grand finale; - another illustration of the truism that knowledge is power. Notwithstanding
that a heavy fine is imposed upon any person who kills these birds, the owner of the rock seems
to have no objection to the steamers merely frightening them; at least the proprietor, in propria
persona, came alongside in a rowboat and offered some excellent fish for sale, without making
any remarks about the noise created. To whom resort the proceeds of the eggs produced upon the
rock I could not learn; the Captain only knows that they were annually sold "en bloc."
Neither can I give any information as to their usefulness for human food, but I should judge
that the knowledge of being laid by birds who subsist exclusively on fish must create a founded or perhaps imaginary aversion on the part of the consumer.
[I am able to enlighten my friends on this subject. Hundreds of thousands
of Farallon eggs, which are nothing but gulls' eggs are annually sold at San Francisco for culinary purposes and I have repeatedly tasted eggs of the same species here in Sitka, which when hard
boiled remind me forcibly of pee-weet eggs, a delicacy much appreciated by the nations inhabiting
the coasts of the North Sea. - THE TRANSLATOR]
We had not yet left the gull-rock far astern when we perceived the North Kyn,
shining like frosted silver in the evening sun, and soon after the mighty rocks which form the
North Cape, loomed up in the horizon. Luck would have it that the Sirius let go her anchor in
the bay on the east side of the Cape, and soon was riding on a calm sea, with a cloudless sky
overhead. We were far more fortunate than the steamer which preceded us only three days ago and
which through stress of weather had been prevented anchoring at all, only giving its passengers
an incomplete view of this promontory by doubling it. Within half an hour the one hundred
passengers were all rowed ashore and the ascent of the colossus had commenced. The trails leading to
the summit, which have been somewhat improved by the Steamship Company, are not what can properly
be called of easy grade; some parts are even so steep that iron bolts driven firmly into the
rocks, are provided, alongside of which strong rocks are depending, which by no means are
superfluous and must serve to hoist one's self up by. It was a funny spectacle for the rear
guard to see those who had landed before, make their way slowly towards the top; I could not
help comparing it with a troop of ants, who were climbing their hill. Those who had reached the
uppermost trail were hardly distinguishable any more; from this the altitude of the rocky
eminence can be deduced.
The aspect enjoyed after the summit has been reached and one advances towards
the almost perpendicular face of the rock, is astounding from its grandeur. In front the Midnight
Sun, which spreads golden sheen over the boundless Arctic Ocean; on either side an expanse of
waters seemingly smooth of which the ripples cannot be discerned from this height limited on the
right by the glistening North Kyn - which stands watch as neighbor to the North Cape on Norway's
mainland - the back-ground formed by the mountains and rocks of Norway's mainland, partly clad
in snow; partly enwrapped in fog; and besides round about the Cape itself, a jubilant, joyful
crowd; a mixing of tongues, almost Babylonian; a feeling of gratitude which gives itself vent
in singing and laughing; in repartee and humor. Maybe it was the champagne which caused the
latter? But this is a question which I cannot answer. Even those old in years participated in
the general frolicking, and without an artificial stimulant at all general joy was bound to
spring forth under the circumstances. However the pearling fluid, brilliant in the glass under
the lustre of the midnight sun, gave a characteristic tone to this picnic on Europe's most
northerly extremity, and it must be said that some heat developing agent was not in the least
objectionable whilst Boreas blew his chill blasts towards us from his throne at the North Pole,
blasts not much tempered by the solar heat, the sun giving abundant light with little warmth.
As a matter of course patriotic ebullitions were in order; "God save the Queen" and Yankee Doodle"
sounded through the air and a little more champagne would, no doubt, also have called forth
"the Watch on the Rhine" from the German members; but as it was they refrained from their
national hymn "par excellence," in consideration of the representatives of the "Grand Nation"
present, whose feelings they did not care to hurt, and instead Heine's more innocent "I do not
know what its meaning is" was rendered upon the suggestion of an English lady. It is to be
wondered at that time seemed to speed more swiftly and that it was already half-past one of the
night (but a night with a brilliant sunshine), when the first officer's whistle announced to
the passengers that it was time to return to the ship? Fatigue was not in the least felt by
any-body, and it was with the utmost regret that we parted from this enchanting scene, which
very few of us ever expected to behold again. But to make our leave-taking lighter, a heavy fog
rolled up between the gorgeous scene and ourselves, which would only have caused rheumatic
pains, if we had tarried longer. That same fog, however, of which many when on the summit,
exclaimed, "What a pity!" was the means of another unexpected spectacle witnessed on our descent.
Whilst the summit of the rock was wrapped in a gray pall, those who commenced to descend were
hid from view only to re-appear upon reaching a lower stage of the trail as sallying forth from
a tunnel of clouds and advancing into a brighter and brighter illumination of which the sun was
the source, when they gradually assumed again the similarity with ants, just as I observed when
the ascent was made. If the latter was full of difficulties, the downward course was not less so,
and the trails in short zig-zags, strewn with pebbles as round as eggs, caused many to gain
more momentum than they wished for, lose their equilibrium and illustrate the laws of gravity
by falling prone on the rock. It took us fully an hour to reach the steamer again. A thundering
earth slide in one of the gulches was our farewell salute from the imposing mass. In truth we
could not but congratulate ourselves on the success of our trip.
The hermit who lives in seclusion for six weeks upon that rock, to furnish
the exulted visitors with his champagne, had told us how the preceding steamer had been
compelled to refrain from anchoring, thereby missing the chief point of interest of the trip,
at least so for many. There are even travellers who only would wish to rush towards the North
Cape, disregarding all the scenic beauties one encounters on the trip, merely to be able to
state that they have been there, and nothing can make that class more happy than when they
succeed in burning a hole in a coat or dress with a lens, in order to tell those at home that
that particular hole was caused by the concentration of the rays of the midnight sun on such
or such a date. To illustrate this craze I will mention that a lady on board with us had exacted
from the Captain the promise, three days in advance already, that she should be the first one of
the passengers to see the North Cape!
Notwithstanding that the stewards had, at our return, provided a cup of strong
coffee for our benefit, drowsiness soon set in with many, and the number of those who remained
on deck gradually lessened, those for those who could keep awake another enjoyment was waiting.
One of the numbers of the programme reads "Sea fishing at the North Cape," and for such who did
not shrink from pulling in a hundred fathoms of line, with a heavy sinker and a glistening spoon
hook attached to it, was often times rewarded by the capture of a large cod-fish. At every fish
that was brought safely on deck the amateur fishermen attested their admiration by a loud hurrah,
and that those fish were worth catching was demonstrated the next day, when they appeared on the
dinner table, elegantly prepared in different ways. Good luck was that much with us that we had
also an opportunity to observe the manœuvering of a whaler chasing its quarry; - this was of
course an extra number, not on the programme. The enthusiasm on board ran riot as the school of
whales announced the respective position of each individual by blowing their water-spouts high
in the air. Those spouts however, did not possess the graceful curves at their highest point, as
represented in illustrations, but nevertheless were clear and distinct and often discernible at
a great distance. The whaler in pursuit had a man stationed in the crow's nest, who indicated to
the helmsman in what direction he perceived the "blowing" of a whale. After much tacking, during
which the whales were occasionally lost sight of but each time recovered through the whales
revealing themselves, one of the monsters came at last under shot. Then came the discharge of
the mortar carrying the bomb; a breathless silence reigned through our whole ship; everyone was
at tip-toe to see just as if we had a pecuniary interest in the chase ourselves, but unluckily
the shot had missed and we were compelled to resume our course.
To sooth the excited nerves of his passengers the Captain entered the
Lyngenfiord, passing beautiful Bird Island, a bare rock of conical shape, but not inhabited by
birds; it rises over 2,000 feet above sea level. The fiord is bounded on one side by an
unbroken chain of mountains, about 6,000 feet high, and covered with snow from which glaciers
descend way down into the valleys, as many as five in a group; no declivity between the
summits can be seen which is not filled with ice. Moreover the rain soon commenced to pour down
in torrents, presenting us with a view of a double rainbow, as perfect as none of us had ever
seen before, and to complete its beauty a dense white fog hung over the waters, upon which the
rainbow seemed to rest. I am convinced that no pen, by what great and talented man it may be
directed, can appropriately describe the impression created by this scene. Was it at all
surprising that the Captain, with his usual kindness, could not resist the prayer of the
majority to abide as long as possible by this pageant? But the delay was not too long; the rain
ceased; the rainbows dissolved; and the Sirius left the fiord for Tromso, where the photographs
had to be received which were taken during our first visit. We arrived at that place during the
night and the first officer was kind enough to receive all things previously ordered without
disturbing the passengers, who were wrapped in sleep, recuperating from the fatigue experienced
during the preceding twenty-four hours.
On the following day many on board suffered from sea-sickness for the first
time. The steamer takes its course as much as possible through the channels between the islands,
in order to avoid the swell of the sea, which causes in many a disagreeable sensation. The Captain
applied the best preventative he could offer by stopping the steamer's engines during the dinner
hour, but the motion on the Vestfiord (the funnel shaped opening between Norway's mainland and the
Lofoden Islands) was for some even then uncomfortable. After dinner was over and the engines were
started ahead again the steamer rolled and pitched so deeply that several passengers found it
advisable to retire to the seclusion of their staterooms. These disagreeable moments are, I must
say, the only ones experienced on the whole trip.
And now the last twenty-four hours which I was to spend aboard the Sirius had
ushered themselves in and we required only one more favor of the weather, a bright sunshine during
our visit to the Svartisen Glacier, of which i have made mention before. Good luck, however, was
against us this time; the clouds had decided to again pour their full contents upon us and we
had to make the most of the opportunity, conditions on shore not being at all favorable. Besides
the saturation of the soil by glacier water, everything was thoroughly washed by the heavenly
flood, which rendered our gymnastics on the tops of huge boulders and across steep mountain
slopes so much more difficult on account of raincoats and umbrellas - indispensable articles
during rainy weather, for city people like myself. The climbing over the slippery boulders,
more slippery now than ever from the continual rain, was accomplished with much difficulty, and
most of the tourists were adverse to such an imaginary enjoyment. Of course, the weather marred
the pleasure of the trip; the clouds shrouded the extent of the glacier, and all we could observe
were the rugged surface and the clefts near by.
An accident, worth recording, happened in one of the latter. A young American
tourist had succeeded, without any escort, in reaching one of the glacier's sidewalks when, in
attempt to cross the ice, he slipped and disappeared into a chasm. A cry of horror arose from every
mouth; all considered him to be lost! Anyone familiar with glacier formation knows that the life
of anyone falling into such clefts can scarcely be saved, as the bottom opening usually terminates
in the swift glacial stream which runs underneath the surface. But as luck would have it such was
not the case here, and in the twinkling of an eye before anyone could reach the scene of the
accident our dauntless American (9 years old) re-appeared on the surface, not much the worse for
his fall, except that he was soaking wet and indescribably muddy. He had caught on a protruding
ice-shelf and had made his way to the upper world again!
Now the Torghatten Rock remained to be visited. This was the last number on the
programme, though it ought to have been number one, and for the last time the passengers were
rowed ashore in the steamer's boats. Another muddy trip stood before us; the boggy soil only
covered the bedrock in a thin layer and was totally saturated with moisture, and very treacherous,
besides, on account of the grass growing upon it, which prevented one from seeing where to gain
a sure footing. Many passengers could not muster sufficient courage to accomplish the tramp as
far as the tunnel, which presents from both apertures a beautiful view of the landscape. I cannot
compare it better than with a monstrous telescope some 450 feet long and from 30 to 45 feet in
diameter, the like of which science nor art have yet been able to construct. Those of our party
who reached the tunnel did not begrudge the experienced discomfort, and were not mindful of the
wet foot-gear, which before starting out had hardly had time to dry from the morning trip to the
glacier.
After the last night spent on land the hours of our being together were few.
At 10:30 a. m. we expected to be back at Trondheim but before we should scatter to all regions
of the globe a general admiration for the gentlemanly treatment of Capt. Juell towards us,
prompted the two nations represented by the greatest numbers - English and Germans - to select a
speaker to thank him in appropriate terms for the kindness and care he had bestowed upon us all,
without an exception. Under festoons of birch leaves decorating the quarter decks, all were
assembled, and everyone concurred in the short addresses delivered by the speakers, which were
respectively concluded with, "Three cheers for Capt. Juell!" and "Dreimal Hoch, Herr Kapitan
Juell!" I conclude by saying that the Steamship Company deserves all credit for placing such
officers in command of their ships.
I lived during those eight days in a world so entirely different, exempt
from the daily cares and drudgery which surrounds us. I witnessed scenes so grand and sublime,
so wild and so beautiful, as no other country in Europe can offer, and, moreover, what a
splendid opportunity is afforded one to study human nature! The mind receives so many fresh
impressions that cares and annoyances are not apt to persecute one for a time; and I feel
certain that nobody will deplore it when he has made the Voyage to the North!
N. J. S.
This article is reproduced in its entirety. No text has been changed, even where spelling, punctuation or grammar is incorrect in the original.
Notes:
- Lapps are now known as Sami (or Saami)
- "train oil" is whale oil
- "a man in his cups" is a drunk
Related Links
|
|