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'The Alaskan' newspaper - Sitka, Alaska Territory, 1891


SITKA, ALASKA TERRITORY,     Saturday, December 8, 1888



The Alaska of Europe


The Land of the Midnight Sun in the Eastern Hemisphere - Its Natural Features, Entrancing Scenery and Quaint People

    The following is a translation of a letter recently received by a gentleman in this city, giving a description of a trip along the Northwest Coast of Norway to the North Cape, which will doubtless be of interest to our readers :

                            AMSTERDAM, HOLLAND
                                September 22nd, 1888
    I have read with great interest the descriptions of Alaska and its inhabitants, which you sent to L_____ from time to time, and having made an extended tour in Norway as far as the North Cape I will give you a sketch of its Western Coast between Trondheim and that Cape, as it seems to me that it has much similarity with your region.
    Credit is due to the English tourists for the "discovery" of Norway, and the explanation of this is easy considering the relative situation of Great Britain and the first named country. From Hull, Edinburgh and Newcastle there are many opportunities for the sons and daughters of Albion to cross the ocean to the Fiord coast, and there they find themselves in a happy hunting ground - a fishing rod, and clothing fit for a damp climate is all that is required, and many an Englishmen is rendered more than happy if he can during his few holidays capture be it only a few salmon and trout. Thus it was that the piscatorial Britishers paved the way for the host of travellers who every year in great number visit the North of Europe to spend their leisure time in the admiration of sublime Nature.
    Taking it for granted that you are familiar with the conditions of Southern and Middle Norway, I commence with my embarking on board the Bergen Nordenfeld S. S. Co.'s steamer Sirius, Capt. Juell, at Trondheim (Trondhjem). She is one of four steamers, each of which makes three trips during June and July between Bergen and the North Cape. In winter, that is to say from August until the middle of June, they run as mail steamers between Vadso and Hamburg, for which service the company receives the considerable subsidy of 1,500,000 crowns ($390,000). Of the departure of a North Cape boat the Trondheim people make a holiday; the majority of the population crowd around the wharves, may be from curiosity, to stare at the foreign tourists who are so materially differ in dress from themselves, and no doubt that variegated throng is worth seeing. I observed American ladies with gray gentlemen's hats, draped with blue gauze, ladies with jockey capes, old gentlemen in knickerbockers and with white dust veils as if they had but yesterday left the deserts in Egypt or Algeria, and finally ladies who had cast off the "womanly" and resembled everything but woman.
    At last the signal for departure was given and with the usual "ahead" and "back" movements of a steamer leaving port, the "Sirius" soon glided over the dark waters of the Fiord and made the city wrapped in a violet colored mist disappear from our sight as in a dissolving view. We were now prisoners confined in our movements for eight days, but there was one consolation: We were one hundred strong and we all had voluntarily surrendered ourselves for one object - to revel in the beauties of Norway's west coast! Our ship yet carried the greatest number of passengers during the season and the saloon could not accommodate all passengers for taking their meals simultaneously, in consequence of which we read upon the black-board, designated for general communications for the passengers, the notice in English as well as in German, that the tables would be set twice for each meal and that every passenger was requested to register his name and decide whether he wished to belong to the first or second table. Through this arrangement the company became divided into two main groups, the English speaking portion selecting the first table, the Germans the second, whilst the other nationalities were about evenly divided.
    As an impartial looker-on I already from the beginning of the trip observed the existence of a jealousy between the two strongly represented nations, which was not always restrained by courtesy and of which the Germans doubtless were the cause. As soon as the morning of the first day out, a committee of the Germans waited upon the Captain and informed him of their desire "that their rights should be equally respected with those of the English, now that they were on board in even numbers." The latter circumstance had never happened before, and it is incontestable that the mode of life on board these steamers is entirely English, due it is said to a fear of competition. And no wonder as it is calculated that with an average transportation of 80 passengers, each voyage nets the Company 22,000 crowns, resulting in 66,000 crowns for three trips of each steamer or for four an aggregate of 264,000 crowns ($68,640). It behooves the commanders of those steamers therefor to exercise a good deal of tact in the relations with their passengers, but Captain Juell is an expert in the art of beating up against an adversary wind and respected by the majority for his impartiality and kindness. To illustrate this I will only mention one instance. It is the custom when sufficient "northing" has been made to see the midnight sun for the first time that the flags of all nations of which representatives are on board are hoisted towards 12 p. m. Thus the Sirius hoisted on July 20th, at midnight, ten different national ensigns but the Dutch tricolor was only represented by its red, white and blue being flung to the breeze in vertical stripes (the French flag) but the horizontal ones were wanting. My patriotism rebelled against this. Upon my questioning the Captain how it was that my national emblem was missing, he looked much surprised and said that he had taken me for a German, on account of my speaking either German or Norwegian to him and his officers, and that he had also heard me speak English and never had realized to what nationality I did belong. The ensuing noon the steward brought me a bouquet accompanied by the Captain's card inscribed with the words, "Please pardon me." The flowers, these the product of such a northerly region and so pretty besides, were highly appreciated by me; they had been ordered at Tromso, where we had arrived early in the morning, and moreover the Captain had immediately directed that a Dutch flag be made, which heralded at midnight of July 21st to the Lofoden group of islands that among the strangers on board were also natives of the Netherlands.
    The weather was overcast and raining the first two days out, and the black-board announced on the second morning that the weather prevented the ascent of Torghatten Rock and a visit to the Svartisen (Black Ice) Glacier. Svartisen is the largest terrestrial ice formation in Europe, which spreads itself over a distance of 70 kilometers (42 English miles). The sun pierced through the clouds just as we came in sight of the Lofoden group. Nothing more beautiful could man behold - that picturesque mass of islands, those towering, bare rocks, yet for the greater part covered with snow, in whose crags from time to time a lonely fisherman's cabin or a train-oil storehouse vainly endeavored to conceal itself; to see all this under a glistening sunlight, we had hoped but not expected to contemplate. At Harstadhaven on one of the Lofoden Islands (Hindo) we stopped for four hours. The object was a visit to the Church of Trondenhaas, one of the few early Christian monuments in North Norway. It dates from the Eighth Century, and is entirely built of stone. It cannot boast of architectural beauty, but its organ surpassed our expectations.
    That night we saw the midnight sun in all its splendor. To view the sun at midnight a distance above the horizon is a conceit that must be enjoyed with a timepiece in hand. But it is no conceit to see how the sun embellished the clouds with all the colors which the spectrum places at its disposal, and the usual illuminations caused by the capricious forms of the clouds; to admire the ocean which glitters like a mass of molten gold, softly heaving under the night wind's breath, whilst astern the vast expanse is bounded by the violet and crimson-tinted pinnacles of a rocky coast. Though there was no darkness to announce to us that resting time was approaching, most of the passengers retired to their staterooms, so induced by the Captain who advised a good night's rest in order to prepare for the fatigues of the two following days and nights. We were then heading for Tromso, where we arrived at 6 a. m., and from which place a couple of excursion trips had been arranged. After a hurried breakfast we took to the boats and were rowed ashore, not to the town, but to the opposite side, where we were to visit a Lapp village. The walk thither was to me a welcome change and more so because it was on a day which lavished upon us a beautiful spring-time. Only recently the snow had melted in the valley; its downy sheet yet covered the mountain slopes, brilliant in the sun's splendor and contrasted by the young verdure on the bottom lands. The tender ferns and moss plants were still resplendent in their light green hues, delicate tints in the full freshness of their short existence. It presented the rapture of a refreshing spring day as one can only find in a wooded country. The object of our walk, which came to view after crossing a birch patch (Tromso's pride), was less fresh and clean, but so much more interesting as it offered us something new and odd. Within a fenced-in corral were gathered some two hundred reindeer, accompanied by a score of Lapps. Their semi-spherical huts, covered with grass sod were near by, from which emerged continually more occupants; it was astonishing to see how many Lapps can accommodate themselves in a single hut, but their appearance, without exception, attested to their contempt for cleanliness. How uncivilized, filthy and abhorrent of water this people may be they have nevertheless learned one lesson from civilization. They know how to turn their oddity into account. Small spoons of reindeer horn, knives with scabbards of the same material, skins, tobacco pouches and sundry other curios found a ready sale. Blessed he who knows to curb his greed for their wares until the visitors are about to leave the camp; for half the originally demanded prices one can secure the coveted articles. Moreover, the Lapp understands how to turn his personality into money; in a less discreditable appliance of the words than was the case with the old Romans it may be said of them: "Quaestum corpore faciunt." For lending a spicyness to a group of tourists the photographers of Tromso pay a male of the genus Lapp, three crowns, a female two, and a child one crown (26 cents), whilst also for the appearance of a reindeer an extra charge is exacted. An undeviating rule for all this is "pay in advance;" every host gauges his guest by himself! The unruliness of the animals is great, and that they have no fondness for their exhibition is apparent (at least on our group) from the fact that they only appear as materialized spirits. The Lapps themselves, however, are represented in their entirety, but the lady who took a Lapp baby in her lap was envied by nobody. Of the reindeer milk, which was milked in our presence by one of the savage women, nobody dared to take a taste, less from repugnance against the unknown and therefore unliked beverage, as because we had witnessed the deed performed by the utterly unclean hands of the milkster. Considering that these representatives of the Lappish race have had frequently an opportunity to come in contact with European civilization and have benefitted by it so little, one shudders at the thought in what condition the remainder of that people must live, of which these are said to be the envoys and the most civilized specimens.
    After this visit the town, situated upon an island at the opposite side of the channel, was given attention. One's expectations will not be strung too high of a town of 2,000 or 3,000 inhabitants beyond the Arctic Circle. At that one reasonably will expect is fish and train-oil, but how agreeable surprising is it to find more favorable conditions, even a store with plate glass windows and last but not least a museum; and let it be said here one of which the internal arrangement excels many of its larger and better known sisters. In the bird section for instance the exhibit is so arranged that with one glance the whole of a special variety can be seen; the male and female are accompanied by their young ones, whilst the therewith deposited eggs show the concealment from which the latter have emerged. Truly an arrangement which deserves emulation.
    At half-past seven in the evening the signal gun was fired giving warning that the steamer would weigh anchor within half an hour. This it was proved, was not an unnecessary announcement, for two gentlemen, passionate sportsmen, had barely time to board her before she commenced gaining headway. However as a comfort for the anxiety experienced by them they brought as a result of their day's hunt many ptarmigan, gulls, and several other kinds of aquatic birds, besides having left to the care of the conservator of the Tromso Museum some of the handsomest specimens to be properly stuffed, to take home with them to Germany to serve as trophies of their hyperborean sport.
    Our course was now set for Hammerfest, which we remembered from our school years was the most northerly city of Europe. After a night's passage of twelve hours this desolate place was reached. Desolate, no doubt it is; not a blade of grass is anywhere discernable; everything is greasy and has been contaminated with train-oil, and the air is impregnated with its repulsive smell, of which only a fresh sea breeze gives relief. I had pledged myself to visit one of the oil works, yes, even if I could not be tempted to accept the drink of honor - a glass of cod-liver oil - but how willing the spirit may be, the flesh is weak, and before I had crossed its threshold my courage failed and I vouchsafed myself absolution for the breaking of my solemn pledge; the smell was too powerful. Not withstanding its lubricative and odorous characteristics the place is picturesque, and many sights one observes when strolling along the wharves, when a variety of oddly shaped sailing craft lie waiting a cargo, with their crews of Finns, Lapps and Norwegians in their respective picturesque, though not extremely tidy national dress enlivening the scene. People who not only come - to use an Ovidian phrase - to see for themselves but also to be seen by others. This is Hammerfest's only redeeming point and I have observed there scenes which would have gladdened an artist's heart and made him seize his sketch book at once. For the first, or at most the second time during my sojourn in Norway I saw a man in his cups - and he was a Lapp. Sheds full of oil-barrels, and fish curing houses are everywhere to be noticed whilst the place boasts of only a single store, which is, of course, an emporium in itself. I must confess that all were glad to leave that town and more so because our next stopping place was to be the chief object of our travels - the North Cape. The Captain said there were signs of prolonged good weather, on account of a light snow which had fallen in the early morning and which was easily to be distinguished from the older layers by its downy radiance.
    But before reaching the North Cape another spectacle awaited our eyes. The excursion steamers take their course to the southward of Magero (of which the Cape is the northern extremity) to pass the Svaerholt klub, a perpendicular wall of rock projecting into the sea and inhabited by millions and millions of birds. Its proportions are so immense that to behold it causes a sort of disappointment. What is more natural than to figure for one's self a rock covered with a living white sheet, as it were? But the reality is far from such a conception; in the distance one sees nothing but a rock flecked with gray patches here and there, and it requires the booming of cannon to make matters interesting. Frightened by the reports of the guns, re-echoed from several places, every gray spot produces thousands of birds, who with deafening screams take wing and even darken the sky overhead. The commotion is only of short duration, however, and to repeat the scene a second cannonade is soon necessary. The birds, doubtless, have already become accustomed to the alarm through the frequent visits of the steamers at this season, and to create a greater effect, rockets pointed at the different patches, are resorted to as a grand finale; - another illustration of the truism that knowledge is power. Notwithstanding that a heavy fine is imposed upon any person who kills these birds, the owner of the rock seems to have no objection to the steamers merely frightening them; at least the proprietor, in propria persona, came alongside in a rowboat and offered some excellent fish for sale, without making any remarks about the noise created. To whom resort the proceeds of the eggs produced upon the rock I could not learn; the Captain only knows that they were annually sold "en bloc." Neither can I give any information as to their usefulness for human food, but I should judge that the knowledge of being laid by birds who subsist exclusively on fish must create a founded or perhaps imaginary aversion on the part of the consumer.
    [I am able to enlighten my friends on this subject. Hundreds of thousands of Farallon eggs, which are nothing but gulls' eggs are annually sold at San Francisco for culinary purposes and I have repeatedly tasted eggs of the same species here in Sitka, which when hard boiled remind me forcibly of pee-weet eggs, a delicacy much appreciated by the nations inhabiting the coasts of the North Sea. - THE TRANSLATOR]
    We had not yet left the gull-rock far astern when we perceived the North Kyn, shining like frosted silver in the evening sun, and soon after the mighty rocks which form the North Cape, loomed up in the horizon. Luck would have it that the Sirius let go her anchor in the bay on the east side of the Cape, and soon was riding on a calm sea, with a cloudless sky overhead. We were far more fortunate than the steamer which preceded us only three days ago and which through stress of weather had been prevented anchoring at all, only giving its passengers an incomplete view of this promontory by doubling it. Within half an hour the one hundred passengers were all rowed ashore and the ascent of the colossus had commenced. The trails leading to the summit, which have been somewhat improved by the Steamship Company, are not what can properly be called of easy grade; some parts are even so steep that iron bolts driven firmly into the rocks, are provided, alongside of which strong rocks are depending, which by no means are superfluous and must serve to hoist one's self up by. It was a funny spectacle for the rear guard to see those who had landed before, make their way slowly towards the top; I could not help comparing it with a troop of ants, who were climbing their hill. Those who had reached the uppermost trail were hardly distinguishable any more; from this the altitude of the rocky eminence can be deduced.
    The aspect enjoyed after the summit has been reached and one advances towards the almost perpendicular face of the rock, is astounding from its grandeur. In front the Midnight Sun, which spreads golden sheen over the boundless Arctic Ocean; on either side an expanse of waters seemingly smooth of which the ripples cannot be discerned from this height limited on the right by the glistening North Kyn - which stands watch as neighbor to the North Cape on Norway's mainland - the back-ground formed by the mountains and rocks of Norway's mainland, partly clad in snow; partly enwrapped in fog; and besides round about the Cape itself, a jubilant, joyful crowd; a mixing of tongues, almost Babylonian; a feeling of gratitude which gives itself vent in singing and laughing; in repartee and humor. Maybe it was the champagne which caused the latter? But this is a question which I cannot answer. Even those old in years participated in the general frolicking, and without an artificial stimulant at all general joy was bound to spring forth under the circumstances. However the pearling fluid, brilliant in the glass under the lustre of the midnight sun, gave a characteristic tone to this picnic on Europe's most northerly extremity, and it must be said that some heat developing agent was not in the least objectionable whilst Boreas blew his chill blasts towards us from his throne at the North Pole, blasts not much tempered by the solar heat, the sun giving abundant light with little warmth. As a matter of course patriotic ebullitions were in order; "God save the Queen" and Yankee Doodle" sounded through the air and a little more champagne would, no doubt, also have called forth "the Watch on the Rhine" from the German members; but as it was they refrained from their national hymn "par excellence," in consideration of the representatives of the "Grand Nation" present, whose feelings they did not care to hurt, and instead Heine's more innocent "I do not know what its meaning is" was rendered upon the suggestion of an English lady. It is to be wondered at that time seemed to speed more swiftly and that it was already half-past one of the night (but a night with a brilliant sunshine), when the first officer's whistle announced to the passengers that it was time to return to the ship? Fatigue was not in the least felt by any-body, and it was with the utmost regret that we parted from this enchanting scene, which very few of us ever expected to behold again. But to make our leave-taking lighter, a heavy fog rolled up between the gorgeous scene and ourselves, which would only have caused rheumatic pains, if we had tarried longer. That same fog, however, of which many when on the summit, exclaimed, "What a pity!" was the means of another unexpected spectacle witnessed on our descent. Whilst the summit of the rock was wrapped in a gray pall, those who commenced to descend were hid from view only to re-appear upon reaching a lower stage of the trail as sallying forth from a tunnel of clouds and advancing into a brighter and brighter illumination of which the sun was the source, when they gradually assumed again the similarity with ants, just as I observed when the ascent was made. If the latter was full of difficulties, the downward course was not less so, and the trails in short zig-zags, strewn with pebbles as round as eggs, caused many to gain more momentum than they wished for, lose their equilibrium and illustrate the laws of gravity by falling prone on the rock. It took us fully an hour to reach the steamer again. A thundering earth slide in one of the gulches was our farewell salute from the imposing mass. In truth we could not but congratulate ourselves on the success of our trip.
    The hermit who lives in seclusion for six weeks upon that rock, to furnish the exulted visitors with his champagne, had told us how the preceding steamer had been compelled to refrain from anchoring, thereby missing the chief point of interest of the trip, at least so for many. There are even travellers who only would wish to rush towards the North Cape, disregarding all the scenic beauties one encounters on the trip, merely to be able to state that they have been there, and nothing can make that class more happy than when they succeed in burning a hole in a coat or dress with a lens, in order to tell those at home that that particular hole was caused by the concentration of the rays of the midnight sun on such or such a date. To illustrate this craze I will mention that a lady on board with us had exacted from the Captain the promise, three days in advance already, that she should be the first one of the passengers to see the North Cape!
    Notwithstanding that the stewards had, at our return, provided a cup of strong coffee for our benefit, drowsiness soon set in with many, and the number of those who remained on deck gradually lessened, those for those who could keep awake another enjoyment was waiting. One of the numbers of the programme reads "Sea fishing at the North Cape," and for such who did not shrink from pulling in a hundred fathoms of line, with a heavy sinker and a glistening spoon hook attached to it, was often times rewarded by the capture of a large cod-fish. At every fish that was brought safely on deck the amateur fishermen attested their admiration by a loud hurrah, and that those fish were worth catching was demonstrated the next day, when they appeared on the dinner table, elegantly prepared in different ways. Good luck was that much with us that we had also an opportunity to observe the manœuvering of a whaler chasing its quarry; - this was of course an extra number, not on the programme. The enthusiasm on board ran riot as the school of whales announced the respective position of each individual by blowing their water-spouts high in the air. Those spouts however, did not possess the graceful curves at their highest point, as represented in illustrations, but nevertheless were clear and distinct and often discernible at a great distance. The whaler in pursuit had a man stationed in the crow's nest, who indicated to the helmsman in what direction he perceived the "blowing" of a whale. After much tacking, during which the whales were occasionally lost sight of but each time recovered through the whales revealing themselves, one of the monsters came at last under shot. Then came the discharge of the mortar carrying the bomb; a breathless silence reigned through our whole ship; everyone was at tip-toe to see just as if we had a pecuniary interest in the chase ourselves, but unluckily the shot had missed and we were compelled to resume our course.
    To sooth the excited nerves of his passengers the Captain entered the Lyngenfiord, passing beautiful Bird Island, a bare rock of conical shape, but not inhabited by birds; it rises over 2,000 feet above sea level. The fiord is bounded on one side by an unbroken chain of mountains, about 6,000 feet high, and covered with snow from which glaciers descend way down into the valleys, as many as five in a group; no declivity between the summits can be seen which is not filled with ice. Moreover the rain soon commenced to pour down in torrents, presenting us with a view of a double rainbow, as perfect as none of us had ever seen before, and to complete its beauty a dense white fog hung over the waters, upon which the rainbow seemed to rest. I am convinced that no pen, by what great and talented man it may be directed, can appropriately describe the impression created by this scene. Was it at all surprising that the Captain, with his usual kindness, could not resist the prayer of the majority to abide as long as possible by this pageant? But the delay was not too long; the rain ceased; the rainbows dissolved; and the Sirius left the fiord for Tromso, where the photographs had to be received which were taken during our first visit. We arrived at that place during the night and the first officer was kind enough to receive all things previously ordered without disturbing the passengers, who were wrapped in sleep, recuperating from the fatigue experienced during the preceding twenty-four hours.
    On the following day many on board suffered from sea-sickness for the first time. The steamer takes its course as much as possible through the channels between the islands, in order to avoid the swell of the sea, which causes in many a disagreeable sensation. The Captain applied the best preventative he could offer by stopping the steamer's engines during the dinner hour, but the motion on the Vestfiord (the funnel shaped opening between Norway's mainland and the Lofoden Islands) was for some even then uncomfortable. After dinner was over and the engines were started ahead again the steamer rolled and pitched so deeply that several passengers found it advisable to retire to the seclusion of their staterooms. These disagreeable moments are, I must say, the only ones experienced on the whole trip.
    And now the last twenty-four hours which I was to spend aboard the Sirius had ushered themselves in and we required only one more favor of the weather, a bright sunshine during our visit to the Svartisen Glacier, of which i have made mention before. Good luck, however, was against us this time; the clouds had decided to again pour their full contents upon us and we had to make the most of the opportunity, conditions on shore not being at all favorable. Besides the saturation of the soil by glacier water, everything was thoroughly washed by the heavenly flood, which rendered our gymnastics on the tops of huge boulders and across steep mountain slopes so much more difficult on account of raincoats and umbrellas - indispensable articles during rainy weather, for city people like myself. The climbing over the slippery boulders, more slippery now than ever from the continual rain, was accomplished with much difficulty, and most of the tourists were adverse to such an imaginary enjoyment. Of course, the weather marred the pleasure of the trip; the clouds shrouded the extent of the glacier, and all we could observe were the rugged surface and the clefts near by.
    An accident, worth recording, happened in one of the latter. A young American tourist had succeeded, without any escort, in reaching one of the glacier's sidewalks when, in attempt to cross the ice, he slipped and disappeared into a chasm. A cry of horror arose from every mouth; all considered him to be lost! Anyone familiar with glacier formation knows that the life of anyone falling into such clefts can scarcely be saved, as the bottom opening usually terminates in the swift glacial stream which runs underneath the surface. But as luck would have it such was not the case here, and in the twinkling of an eye before anyone could reach the scene of the accident our dauntless American (9 years old) re-appeared on the surface, not much the worse for his fall, except that he was soaking wet and indescribably muddy. He had caught on a protruding ice-shelf and had made his way to the upper world again!
    Now the Torghatten Rock remained to be visited. This was the last number on the programme, though it ought to have been number one, and for the last time the passengers were rowed ashore in the steamer's boats. Another muddy trip stood before us; the boggy soil only covered the bedrock in a thin layer and was totally saturated with moisture, and very treacherous, besides, on account of the grass growing upon it, which prevented one from seeing where to gain a sure footing. Many passengers could not muster sufficient courage to accomplish the tramp as far as the tunnel, which presents from both apertures a beautiful view of the landscape. I cannot compare it better than with a monstrous telescope some 450 feet long and from 30 to 45 feet in diameter, the like of which science nor art have yet been able to construct. Those of our party who reached the tunnel did not begrudge the experienced discomfort, and were not mindful of the wet foot-gear, which before starting out had hardly had time to dry from the morning trip to the glacier.
    After the last night spent on land the hours of our being together were few. At 10:30 a. m. we expected to be back at Trondheim but before we should scatter to all regions of the globe a general admiration for the gentlemanly treatment of Capt. Juell towards us, prompted the two nations represented by the greatest numbers - English and Germans - to select a speaker to thank him in appropriate terms for the kindness and care he had bestowed upon us all, without an exception. Under festoons of birch leaves decorating the quarter decks, all were assembled, and everyone concurred in the short addresses delivered by the speakers, which were respectively concluded with, "Three cheers for Capt. Juell!" and "Dreimal Hoch, Herr Kapitan Juell!" I conclude by saying that the Steamship Company deserves all credit for placing such officers in command of their ships.
    I lived during those eight days in a world so entirely different, exempt from the daily cares and drudgery which surrounds us. I witnessed scenes so grand and sublime, so wild and so beautiful, as no other country in Europe can offer, and, moreover, what a splendid opportunity is afforded one to study human nature! The mind receives so many fresh impressions that cares and annoyances are not apt to persecute one for a time; and I feel certain that nobody will deplore it when he has made the Voyage to the North!
                    N. J. S.



This article is reproduced in its entirety. No text has been changed, even where spelling, punctuation or grammar is incorrect in the original.

Notes:
- Lapps are now known as Sami (or Saami)
- "train oil" is whale oil
- "a man in his cups" is a drunk

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